Price gouging....at the pump or at the winery.
September 07, 2005
It was about this time last year when I
discovered a new Pinot Noir value from the Green Valley area of
Sonoma. Many of you will recall the 2002
Patassy, not because you purchased over 1300 bottles in
just a week, but because the winery had to cut me off and many of you were left
begging for more. Only 500 cases were made, and Frank Patassy
and his broker felt it was important to sell the remaining wine in
restaurants and other market areas around the country. Other than my
recommendation, I found it extremely gratifying there was not a review
or rating associated with the Patassy wine to spur your interest. A
month later, the first printed mention of Patassy was in a restaurant
review by Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle who gloated its great
value. I still don't think a week passes when someone doesn't email or
come in the store inquiring about this wine. Regretfully, I passed on
the 2003 rendition as it just did not measure up to its
predecessor.
Since last fall, the popularity of Pinot Noir has has
grown immensely. Some will credit the movie Sideways for
spawning American interest in this grape, and to some extent
this must be true. But I find the Sideways' "bandwagon"
somewhat degrading to semi-serious or even recreational wine
consumers. Pinot Noir was not discovered overnight and Sideways
was still being edited when Patassy hit these
"cyber-airwaves". Because most Pinot Noir is produced in small
batches, wineries feel a need to
charge higher prices, and still have no problem meeting
demand. The 2002 Patassy was an exception. Big eye
opener! Guess what? Americans do not like to be
gouged....whether it's at the pump or from the winery?! Gaseoline is
a necessity, but we have far more choices when it comes to selection and
what one wants to pay for a bottle of wine.
Recently, an "innocent" looking bottle of Pinot Noir that
I began stocking in early August has begun to take on a life of its
own. Without any fanfare, last week about ten cases moved in and out of
the store.....not counting special parties. The word is out amongst the
regulars.....and so I am giving you the heads up too!!! So it is with great pleasure that I announce a
new discovery in value Pinot Noir!
2004 L' Automne from Mendocino
County! Produced under the Saison des Vins
("wine of the seasons") label by Wells Guthrie, the owner-winemaker of
cult-followed Copain Wine Cellars
www.copainwines.com .
Wells has an interesting background that includes landing a job right out of
college with the Wine Spectator as an assistant tasting coordinator for the
editors. He really had little interest in wine until he had the
opportunity to begin tasting along side the editors. He spent a few years
in this position and recognized he had a gifted palate. He caught the
winemaking bug, so his next step was to travel to France and look for
work. Wells was fortunate to train with fabled
Rhone producer Chapoutier for two years. He also became
acquainted with legendary producer Jean Louis Chave, whom he attributes a
great impact on his winemaking approach and philosophy. Upon returning to
the United States, Wells honed his skills and continued to learn from Helen
Turley at Martinelli, and Ehren Jordan at Turley Wine Cellars. Wells was
responsible for the early success of Pax Mahler's wines where he was the
winemaker and consulting winemaker the first couple of vintages.
Obviously, Pax was a good student!!
This Pinot Noir is made much like the wines under the
Copain label, with exclusively French oak barrels, minimal use of new oak, low
yields of organically grown fruit, unfined and
unfiltered, bottled at a young, vibrant age, and aiming to be food
friendly. The grapes are sourced
from the Hein Vineyard in Anderson Valley and two new
vineyards located in the Potter Valley region, including the organically farmed
Elke vineyard. The valley gets very warm during peak summer months, but still
cools off into the 40's at night which allows the vines to recover. Soil
composition is mostly clay loam with very little sand. This wine is
not composed of a few barrels that "didn't make the cut" (although there are
probably a few barrels of those in the blend anyway). Rather,
L' Automne is a wine produced
from strictly organically farmed vineyards in Mendocino County, where
the growers/owners bought into Wells's concept of making fine wine at
a price that people can afford for everyday consumption.
My tasting
notes: Slightly darker ruby color than normally found in typical Anderson Valley
Pinot Noir. Good depth and clarity. Immediate aromas of
cola, black plum and ripe cherries with spice nuances of rose blossoms, and
dark tea. Essence of baked bing cherry pie filling lilts on the palate
without heaviness or ripeness. The soft, round, gentle
finish is supported by enough underlying acidity to assure a couple of
extra years of drinking pleasure.
Food
recommendations: Autumn menu of
salmon roast; seared ahi; veal fricasse with dried fruits;
sweetbreads; pork roast or chops (berry glaze); dark meat poulty (turkey,
chicken or quail); braised rabbit; mushrooms;
roasted beets.
Order NOW by replying
to this email for only $17.50 a bottle. All orders will be confirmed with invoice #. I have
been assured there is a descent supply of this wine available, so limits will
not be imposed. Yes, the wine will also be available to
taste this Friday afternoon and Saturday at the tasting
bar.
Dave Landis of Silver Oak was passing by last Friday on his way
to a soft "training" dinner at the new Ruth's Chris Steak House soon to open in
the Roseville Galleria. He brought along a bottle of the 2002 Twomey Merlot from Napa Valley
to sample. MY, My,
my!!! Ladies and gentlemen, you have purchased huge amounts of 2001 Silver Oak Alexander Valley from me
since its release August 1st.....BUT, I can positively tell you that
the 2002 Twomey Merlot (Silver
Oak's sister winery) is everything you hope your Silver Oak will
be....and more!!! Robert Parker is
dead on correct in his assessment of this wine. You might recall from my
past emails he has given this Twomey a 94 points rating, which is the
same rating he gave the 2001 Paloma Merlot (annointed #1 by the Wine Spectator -
2003 Top 100 Wines). You will not find (m)any Merlot that
is as big and rich, with intensely concentrated flavors (chocolate tinged
black cherry and cassis) as this head turner. And for all it's
bravado, the 2002 Twomey still has a deft touch of elegance and
polish! You can still order from me at the presale price of $57.75
a bottle. You will not be invoice dated until
October 1st or charged until after the wine arrrives upon its release in
early October (to be released at $65 a bottle). How can you
lose!!? Just reply to this email for
confirmation.
"Even better than the 2001 is the
2002 Twomey Merlot, a blend of 99.4% Merlot and .6% Cabernet Franc......An
exotic perfume of pepper, herbs, black cherries, plums, and raspberries is
accompanied by an exciting texture, a plush, fleshy palate, and a concentrated,
long heady, moderately tannic finish. This wine should improve over the next 2-3
years and last for 10-14. Very impressive! This is a top-flight single-vineyard
wine aged completely in French oak, which is in total contrast to the wines made
at Silver Oak". - 94
points, Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate (Issue 157 - Feb.
2005)
For those of you
that like to begin your weekend a little earlier -
I wanted to give a plug for a special Kiwanis fund raiser for the Kiwanis Family House at UC Medical Center.
Next Thursday, September 15th at the Radison Hotel of Leisure
Lane and Highway 160 from 6 to 9:30 pm. Local area wineries will participate. Silent
Auction. Raffle (Mags of 2001 Spottswoode and
Rudd). And a great spread of catered
appetizers! $45 Advance or $65 at the door.
Contact Telephone #s are (916) 848-3390 and
216-5499.
PLEASE
NOTE: The brick and mortar store at Greenback Lane
will be CLOSED THIS
COMING TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13th. so we may
attend import trade tastings in San Francisco. Regular store hours will
resume on the 14th. 11am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to
6pm
Shipping
UPDATE! The weather pattern here in
Sacramento is continuing to cool, so we are beginning preparations to
process and ship the backlog of orders we have been holding for
everyone.
Eric Stumpf
The Wine Consultant
View the Archives |
|
