Napa Valley Restaurant Review -
March 08, 2006
Looking for a quick romantic getaway? We
decided to drive down Sunday morning to check out the exhibits and Spanish going
ons at Copia in Napa Valley. Before we left we
were fortunate to secure an 8:30 pm reservation at Open
Table for the latest rage restaurant in Napa
Valley. If you have not heard of Redd in
Yountville, you can thank me later!! Next step was to find
nearby accommodations. This time of year it's not too difficult,
if you are venturing down to the valley for a stay Sunday through
Thursday. No two night minimum. Tip!
Walk to Redd from the Villagio Inn &
Spa as it is directly across the street. Go for
the special "Romance" package that includes a bottle of wine, an
upgraded room, and sparkling wine buffet breakfast with noon
checkout!
It was a "perfect" rainy night, so we lit a
fire and watched the Academy Awards before venturing across the street. We
arrived without incident thanks to the volumnious umbrellas provided by the
inn. Redd, named after Chef Richard Reddington, was abuzz, and aglow....if
you know what I mean! Even though the decor is rather austere and
stark, a comforting warmth comes from the stained wood accents
and energy of diners enjoying themselves. This is the old Piatti's
along Washington Street, completely gutted and made over. We
were greeted graciously and escorted immediately to our
table.
After much deliberation, we decided to order a la
carte instead of the tasting menu. A nice selection of half bottles
was more than adequate to make appropriate choices for our first two
courses. If you bring your own wine, a $25 corkage charge is
waived for every standard bottle purchased. I mention
this because we had pilfered a bottle of the legendary 1994 Dalla
Valle Maya from the store's cellar. A ripe white
Graves was fitting for Renee's seared diver scallop appetizer with
cauliflower puree, while I enjoyed a frothy creamed nectar with fresh shucked
mussels and clams. And a Spatlese Riesling from the 1999 Rheingau vintage
provided a wonderful fruit and acid counterpoint to Renee's trio of foie
gras and my pork belly with fennel puree and soy caramel.
At first we considered simply sharing a main entree
plate. Our choices were limited to the obvious "something red
blood has been pumping through". Luckily, we were pleased we
reconsidered and made individual selections, as the portions
were small but very rich and flavorful. The menu understates its
descriptions. Renee's rosey duck breast with accents of confit
were served with a lush textured cannelloni of green garlic and
ricotta. My juicy rare strips of NY steak were accompanied by a rich
and sultry reduction of boneless short ribs and nestled on a thick
cream of vibrant spinach with sweet carmelized onions. The Maya
had been decanted and breathing for a little more than an hour when we were
served our main dishes. Although the wine was full of
sassy black fruit and youthful energy, it still showed restraint and gained
complexity by the moment! Cedar and lead pencil shavings mingled
with the cassis and black currant fruits. Perfectly balanced and on
target like a laser beam, this wine is ageing gracefully with at least
another 20 years of potential growth. I was reminded of the great Napa
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (45% Cabernet Franc) from
another era where over ripeness was taboo. The Maya carried its
13.5% alcohol with class and a polished demeanor. And can you believe
it? Robert Parker, once upon a time, had the insight
to accurately score this "low" alcohol wine at 99 points.
Why can't we return to this style?
We did find fault with the disappointing chocolate
"molten" dessert that was light on the molten and lacked the black cherry
intensity promised by the menu description. On the other hand, the
caramel banana cake was sinfully exotic and kind of a cross between banana
fosters and an upside down cake.
Table and wine service was professional
and engaging when prompted. Someone might coach the well
meaning support staff (expediter and bus person) to remember that plate
service is from the left and removal from the right....and always the lady
is first.
Redd should be considered a special destination
restaurant. No, it is not about to give its neighbor the French Laundry a
run for its clothes line, but it is a fine new addition to a
growing second tier of alternative choices; Martini House, La
Toque, Terra's, Bouchon, Bistro Jeanty, Napa N.V., etc. Appetizers
range from the mid teens and entrees in the mid to high
twenties. Remember, even a la carte portions are small. The
prix fixe tasting menu offers five course at $70 ($100 with wine pairing
option) or nine courses for $105 ($165 with wine). The wine list
is not catalogue size at this stage, but offers a thoughtful and diverse
selection of fair priced wines, and not just from
California.
Eric Stumpf
The Wine Consultant
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