The Black Wine
April 10, 2008

 

 

Situated in southwestern France along the Lot River, only about a 150 miles east of Bordeaux, Cahors has a colorful viticulture history extending over 20 centuries.   At one time the region was considered a rival to the Bordeaux trade, but after being decimated by phylloxera in the mid 1880s, and a disastrous frost in 1958, Cahors experienced a long road to recovery.  Finally, in 1971 Cahors was awarded appellation status (AOC) for its 10,000 acres of vineyards.

 

At the very least, 70% of the wine must be produced with Malbec (also known as Cot or Auxerrois), while the remaining components can be Tannat and Merlot.  The best vineyard sites grow in a low yielding, very stony-pebbly, clay-limestone terrrain.  When young, these opaque wines can be very robust, with intensely agresssive tannins.  Given patient cellaring, Cahors Malbec can develop amazing complexity.  Over the last 15 years, much of the winemaking has been on a learning curve to harness these powerhouse wines to afford earlier drinkability while not impeding upon their potential to evolve.  Investment in new oak barriques, modern equipment, micro-oxygenation techniques, and extended lees contact are at the forefront of this improvement.

 

Recently at an import trade tasting event in San Francisco, my palate was on the brink of fatigue, when after nearly 3 hours of intermittent sampling of Burgundy and Rhone wines, I received a wake up call at the table of Chateau du Cedre (Cedar). Widely considered the reference point producer for the higest quality wines from Cahors, I was immediately impressed by the bravado of black fruit and flamboyant personality of Pascal Verhaeghe's  wines.

 

 

2004 "Le Prestige" is a big black beauty scented by floral, and licorice 

components, black & blue fruits, a full and weighty palate feel, bright acid and a lick of finishing tannins begging for charred rare meat, or better yet, a classic duck confit cassoulet!  90% Malbec, 5% each Merlot and Tannat.  16 months in Troncais (French) oak barrels; 1/3 new, 1/3 one vintage old, 1/3 drums (500 litres) 2 vintage old.  Unfined and unfiltered. Should be $30 a bottle.  NOW  $23.50

 

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