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2009 Marc Ollivier Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie: The classic white bottling of Ollivier remains a benchmark for Muscadet. The ripeness on the nose shows off like salted apricots, with lavender, hay, citrus and a soapstone mineral quality. Ripe, focused and absolutely packed with mineral fulfillment. For even more depth, seek out Ollivier's Clos des Briords from 1930-era vines planted on schist; one of the best deals in white wine, it routinely improves over several years."
By Jon Bonne, SF Chronicle Recommends: Muscadet - August 25, 2010.
Ollivier is the only grower in the Muscadet who does not have a single clonal selection in his vineyards.
An old-vines cuvee of Muscadet from a single plot vineyard planted in schist. These are among the oldest vines in Marc’s estate (they were planted in 1930) and enjoy a particularly good exposition. While most of Marc’s vines are planted on poor, shallow soil with hard granite very close to the surface, the Clos des Briords has a much deeper top soil of clay and silica over a brittle granite subsoil: this ensures excellent drainage in wet years, and better moisture retention in dry summers. Ripening is slower, and the longer hang-time before harvest allows for optimal maturity to be reached. Because of the soil and greater concentration achieved with old vines, the Clos des Briords is a more powerful wine that most Muscadets. It is very mineral and quite austere in its youth, rather than fruity and light. Over a few months, or even years, if one can wait for it, it develops much complexity in aromatics and structure.
Aromatics of apple, citrus and saline. Great precision on the palate with sharp acidity. Loaded with citrus and crushed rock with some orchard fruit. Briney, stoney and chalky. A tremendous value. 12% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.
Marc Olliver tweeted 2009 is best he has made —
Age worthy rare magnums available at $37.95
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